From the category archives:

Ingredient Information

You may have seen me on Twitter talking about trying out Crisco. That’s right, the shortening that people use to bake and fry with.

Crisco’s Background Check

You might have a few preconceived notions about using Crisco on the hair. Here were some that I had:

It will make me smell like fried chicken. Not true. Crisco has no scent as far as I can tell. Honestly, I don’t know why this keeps coming up, but I think it’s the association Crisco has had with lard. (FYI: Crisco is not lard) Now, if you fry some chicken, save the oil and then reuse it on your hair, you might have a problem.

The ingredients are bad for my hair. Well, I guess that would be an individual choice. The ingredients are actually not that bad. From the back of my can:

So we have soybean oil, and then hydrogenated palm and soybean oils. Hydrogenation (ug, get ready for a lil science) is the process of adding hydrogen under pressure to liquid oils which semi-solidifies them. This process is used in a ton of hair care, make up, fragrances, and other beauty products.

Yes, it’s used in a ton of products, but that still doesn’t answer the question of “How safe is it?”

I took my search to SkinDeep which pretty much reports that there is very little to no toxicity or danger associated with the use of hydrogenated vegetable oils. Of course taken internally is a whole ‘nother matter…so hold off on using this to make biscuits too often (though my grandma used to make the BEST pies and biscuits with Crisco!). If you’re someone who only likes to use pure, unrefined oils and ingredients, this might not be for you.

The next ingredient that raised a flag was TBHQ (tertiary butylhydroquinone). I was like, what the heck is this exactly? I did find some alarming articles online about this ingredient but I found just as many that said that the alarmists were alarming for no reason. This is from wikipedia:

Both the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) and the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) have evaluated TBHQ and determined that it is safe to consume at the concentration allowed in foods.[4] The FDA sets an upper limit of 0.02% of the oil or fat content in foods.[5] At higher doses, it has some negative health effects on lab animals, such as producing precursors to stomach tumors and damage to DNA.[6] A number of studies have shown that prolonged exposure to high doses of TBHQ may be carcinogenic,[7] especially for stomach tumors.[8] Other studies, however, have shown opposite effects including inhibition against HCA-induced carcinogenesis (by depression of metabolic activation) for TBHQ and other phenolic antioxidants (TBHQ was one of several, and not the most potent).[9] The EFSA considers TBHQ to be non-carcinogenic.[4] A review of scientific literature concerning the toxicity of TBHQ determined that there is a wide margin of safety between the levels of intake by humans and the doses that produce adverse effects in animal studies.[10] However, it should also be noted that the review cited in the last sentence took place some time ago (1986).

Based on the above information and others, I’m  not too fussed about that ingredient.

It will “fry” my hair like it fries that delicious chicken.  I was torn on this one. Many people use coconut oil and other oils to flat iron their hair.I’ve seen a lot of people who press with Crisco say that it doesn’t boil until around 400-425 degrees Fahrenheit. Therefore, by that reasoning, keeping your appliances below 400 or so will minimize damage. I will present the evidence I’ve found and let you decide for yourself.

In order to find out if Crisco would “cook” one’s hair, I thought I had to find out the boiling points of the two oils that make up Crisco: soybean and palm. Let me tell you, it is very hard to find the exact boiling points for these oils.

I did, however, find the “smoke point” for these oils, though they also vary. The smoke point is when oil is heated so much that it produces smoke and it also starts to degrade nutritionally. When frying, you want to choose oils with a high smoke point, like veggie oils. Palm oil’s smoke point is around 455 degrees F and soybean oil’s is around 460 degrees F (wikiepdia).

I was able to find out from the Department of Physics at the University of Illinois that an oil will reach its smoke point before it reaches its boiling point.

However, these points depend not only the type of oil but also how refined the oil is. So, according to the aforementioned physics site, the boiling point for soybean oil (very refined) would be around 572 degreed F! The less pure an oil is the more heat it can take.

This leads me to believe that the boiling point is not what I should be looking at, but instead the smoke point. And I’m also thinking that’s what people who defend Crisco are referring to when they say “boiling point” but I could be wrong.

NOW, having said allll that…crisco is shortening, not liquid oil. I’ve found out that shortening has a much lower smoke point than regular soybean and palm oil. Crisco recommends frying at 365 to 375 degrees F when using the shortening. Another cooking site I went to had the smoke point of veggie shortening at 325 degrees F.

Take all of the above information and apply your own judgement. I would personally suggest, as I do for all instances when you use heat, to make sure you use the lowest possible setting and use a heat protectant. I typically use my flat iron at about 400. I researched the whole smoke point thing after I flat ironed (smart, I know!)

Of course, none of this matters if you use it without heat.

Last notion: It just ain’t right to use shortening on your hair! Ok it does seem weird. But using honey, molasses, and bananas on my hair seemed weird 5 years ago. If you’re still of the mind that it ain’t right, check out this article from The Natural Haven.

My Review

If you’ve never seen Crisco, it is a white thick, almost buttery feeling semi-solid. I’ve heard it compared to mayonnaise and I can’t understand the comparison. Mayo is what I would call “gloppy” and Crisco isn’t like that at all. It is very rich and spreads easily. As I said, I can detect no odor. The price was $2.89 at my local grocery store.

I didn’t start out using Crisco for flat ironing, even though that is what it seems to receive the most praise for.

I used it on dry hair first. My results? Very soft hair. I also thought it would be hella greasy like a petroleum  product, but it really wasn’t. I started out using it sparingly but found that I could actually apply a bit more than was often suggested.

I did not find it be moisturizing when used alone. I’m not surprised as oils don’t generally do much for moisture as a rule. I think this is an excellent choice for sealing and that’s what I used it for.

I also found a lot of reports of Crisco imparting sheen, even without flat ironing. I did not find this to be the case when applying it to a dry natural style. I did find that it lent more sheen when I used it on wet hair.

As for my flat ironing experience, I do have to say that this was probably the best press I’ve ever done. My hair was extremely soft with minimal greasiness (I could feel the product but only lightly), it was shiny (though straight hair usually does shine), and it got pretty darn straight.

Here was my routine:

  • Shampoo with Suave Clarifying Shampoo
  • Applied homemade protein treatment, rinsed
  • Deep Condition with Lustrasilk Shea Plus, detangled, rinsed
  • Banded hair with Nexxus Heat Protexx (liquid heat protectant) and let air dry
  • Blowdried with comb attachment (on low heat)
  • Applied Crisco and flat ironed on 400 degrees F (mostly 2 passes, sometimes 3)

 

I’ve since used it a few times on my flat ironed hair when it felt dry. It feels moisturized after I use it but the feeling doesn’t last long. So, again, doesn’t do much for me in the moisture department.

In addition to using it on my hair, I’ve been using it on my skin. It has been doing wonders for my dry, rough feet. After a bath, it can be a bit much, so use it sparingly. But even when I used too much, I didn’t stay greasy long ;)

I can’t say that Crisco is the only thing I will ever use on my skin and hair (because as a product junkie, I can’t completely commit!) but it will definitely enter the rotation. Especially at that price.

Some other interesting facts about Crisco:

  • Elvis supposedly used it to style his hair back in the ’50s.
  • Crisco is an excellent treatment for eczema.
  • Oncologists and gynecologists will sometimes recommend Crisco for vaginal dryness.
  • Crisco can be used on diaper rash.

Share your experiments/experiences with Crisco or critique my shoddy science research below! Thanks for reading!

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I received this press release a few days ago and thought I would share it here.

Naturalists Tell Design Essentials Their Top Ingredients for Natural Hair

Online survey reveals secrets and attitudes behind natural hair trend

DE afro

ATLANTA, GA June 28, 2011 –Naturalistas recently told Design Essentials Salon System that ingredients are the key to natural hair care. The results are part of an online survey in which 200 African American and Hispanic women, ages 18-64, responded to questions designed to assess their attitudes and behaviors toward wearing natural hair.

Women who would like certain ingredients were most likely to mention a natural oil as what they’re looking for: olive oil, coconut oil and jojoba oil. Listing the health of her hair a main concern, vitamins and moisturizers are also desired- even at the generic level. Additionally, shea butter was a favorite among the respondents. Overall, the top ingredients most desired in hair products were:

  • Olive oil
  • Vitamins
  • Coconut oil
  • Jojoba oil
  • Moisturizers
  • Natural oils
  • Shea butter

“One of the things that the industry is moving towards is the use of natural products and our consumer research keeps us on the forefront of that trend,” Tracey Gibson, Director of Marketing for McBride Research Laboratory, creator of Design Essentials, added. “Nourishing ingredients help women maintain natural hair and showcase their hair’s natural beauty. The ingredients highlighted in this survey are exactly what women who are transitioning or wearing natural hair styles should seek in their products.”

Utilizing the results found in the Natural Hair Survey, Design Essentials® most recently participated in the World Natural Hair, Health, & Beauty Show by offering educational classes to both professional stylists and consumers. The classes, which focused on the versatile styling options of natural hair and Design Essentials® Natural, were a huge hit amongst attendees. Design Essentials® also offers the Step by Step Styling Guide that features six beautiful and simple styles for natural hair, which is accessible online at www.designessentials.com/en/Natural.aspx.

Additionally, the survey found that the top ingredients to exclude from hair products are alcohol, chemicals, lye, mineral oil, sulfates and lanolin.

Design Essential launched Design Essentials Natural in 2010 during its 20th anniversary celebration. It features various products containing many of the preferred ingredients naturalists require in their hair products. In addition, the line is formulated with natural ingredients, making it silicone-free, paraben-free, mineral oil-free, paraffin-free, petroleum-free and fragrance-free.

Interesting! And not at all surprising…for the online natural hair population. But I have to wonder what the average Jane prefers in her products.

Not everyone likes to hang out online wandering around hair blogs and boards to find out what they “should” be using on their hair. I’ve met many a natural who still used petroleum laden products that worked well according to them.

Then again, I’ve met some people who swore to me they couldn’t go natural because the “juices and berries” approach to hair products wasn’t their cup of tea.

Anyway, I’m so happy to see the loves of my life on that list!

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An email from Lolita:

Hi Kcurly,

I read your blog almost everyday.  I would like to start off by saying thank you for all of the research and information that you share with “us curlies”.  If it were not for your site, I would not have known what to do when I first went natural. You are my hair idol.

I recently bought some Uncle Funky’s Daughter Extra Butter and read the ingredient list.  This is supposed to be a natural product, and I purchase it as a moisturizer.  However, I noticed “Potassium Hydroxide” as the 12th ingredient.  I am concerned about this ingredient.  Do you know this to be “Lye or No Lye” like in relaxers and is it dangerous to the hair.  I did some research and all I found were negative things about this ingredient.  Have you heard of Uncle Funky’s Daughter and what do you think of Potassium Hydroxide in a hair care product.  Should I use this product.  I have not used it as I am afraid that it will damage my hair.

Thank you so much for all of the great informatio that you put out.  I hope that you have the time to answer my question.

Your Curly Fan,

Lolita F.

Hey girl, thanks for reading and for the email :)

The presence of sodium hydroxide (lye) and potassium hydroxide in hair products (non straightening products, I mean) often cause alarm in the natural hair community. I myself had a bit of a conniption upon discovering it in my shampoo while transitioning.

Is it damaging to the hair? Will it relax the hair? Short answer: No, it should not. Since I am was very happy to leave chemistry behind after graduating college, I will refer you to the Natural Haven for a more complete answer. She does a good job of explaining the difference between lye in a relaxer as compared to lye in say, conditioner.

As for the safety of the ingredient itself, you can check out Skin Deep for a more detailed effect as far as health is concerned.

An email from Kunbi:

hey kcurly:

My name is kunbi. I just want to start off by saying that I absolutely love your website. It has inspired me to rock my hair natural. My hair is natural now. I started my transition in 08 and I cut off the last of my perm hair this march! BUT I’ve been rocking my hair in weaves. But now I am interested in rocking it completely natural but I’m bit scared. I read about the different products to use and what not to use but I’m scared bout experimenting and I also am very self conscious about my huge forehead! Also, I dont think my hair could get like yours…..i feel like genetics and the fact that my hair is real coarse wont allow me to get to that point

Basically, what advice can you give me bout getting through this and getting to “all natural” potential!! Also do you think the weaves could be hindering my growth???

Thanks for setting up a website like this! it has been very informative!

look forward to hearing from you!

Thanks,

Kunbi

Kunbi,

Congrats on being natural! Hmm, what to address first…

The weaves hindering growth? No ma’am it won’t. Hair will grow as long as you are healthy and there is no damage to the follicle.

Now, there can be problems with retaining said growth with a weave. If you’re going to keep weaving, be sure to take care of the hair under the weave. Moisturize it as needed while the weave is in and also make sure not to wear it so long that it encourages matting and tangling.And for goodness sake, please don’t use glue. Be aware that some people experience damage to their hairline and have the appearance of bald spots. See any recent picture of Naomi Campbell as reference.

Eeek!

I know you’re scared to experiment and, trust me, I spent many a day with a disaster on my head while I was trying out my styling skills. I do think that if you stick with weaves completely, you will never get comfortable with your hair.

So, here’s my suggestion: Why not switch to wigs? You can  experiment with your hair and then, if things don’t turn out well, you can pop on your wig. Also with a wig, you can slowly ease yourself into wearing natural styles by wearing your natural hair out a few days of the week.  You may even want to choose a “natural” looking wig to help your brain adjust. Just be sure to continue good hair care practices while wearing the wig.

As for your hair being too coarse to look like mine….well, mine isn’t exactly baby soft. In fact, someone at work mentioned how soft my hair looked. I had them feel it because my hair feels very wiry most of the time. She was very surprised at how coarse it felt. It’s just the way it is.

And your hair probably won’t look like my hair because it’s your hair. It’s nice to have “hair idols” but you have to realize that at the end of the day, you’re going to have your hair and they’re going to have theirs. That was a hard lesson I had to learn. You have to learn to love what is growing out of your head. I had some hair idols whose hair I loved but once I spent some quality time with my own hair, I loved it 10 times more than I loved anyone else’s.

As for the forehead, girl, that’s the least of your worries :) Check out my post on it:

High Foreheads

Another note on foreheads…I was so worried about having my forehead exposed because it was so “big” when my hair was shorter. Now that my hair is long, I still have my forehead exposed most of the time because it’s not like I have bangs. Just like I’ve accepted my hair texture, I’ve accepted that a high forehead is not something to be ashamed of.

Everything above was said with the utmost love.

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Edit:11/21/09 I’m bumping this old post because there have been so many great comments made. I’m also bumping it for any newbies who might be thinking of this as an option!

I was walking to get lunch at work yesterday when I spotted a young lady with a little fro walking by. All naturals catch my attention since they seem to be few and far in between where I live. I didn’t say anything and continued talking on my cell phone. She interrupted me and told me she liked my hair and asked how I did it.

I hung up my phone ( Bye DH!) because if there’s someone to talk about hair with, I’m happy! I told her how I did my twists, what products I like, about my BC. I then asked her about her hair : how long she’d been natural and did she just recently BC.

Her: “Oh no, I used to wear it really short like a dude but started growing it out. But my boyfriend said it was too damn nappy and what was I going to do with it? I had to put a texture softener in it just to be able to comb through it”

I must’ve winced when I heard “texture softener” because she said “What?”

Me (going with honesty):” I just didn’t know that your hair was,um, chemically treated”

Her (confused): “It’s not. A texture softener is like a moisturizer…it just makes the hair softer so you can comb through it. I used the childrens’ version”

Ya’ll, this about bowled me over. I was pretty much done at this point because 1) lunch time was quickly coming to a close and 2) I couldn’t believe that she really thought this. I told her that a texture softener was a mild relaxer, gave her the names of a few sites I like to visit and said goodbye.

Just now I was on the Just for Me Texture Softener site to see if it was misleading. I am mad and a little disgusted by what I saw.

First, let me list the ingredients, which I could not find on the website. I apologize if they are there and I just missed them, but I ended up having to go elsewhere for ingredient info (from www.walgreens.com):

Water – Aqua , Petrolatum , Cetearyl Alcohol , Mineral Oil – Paraffinum Liquidum , Polysorbate 60 , Calcium Hydroxide , Propylene Glycol , PEG-75 Lanolin , Sodium Stearoamphoacetate , Aloe Barbadensis , Oleth-3 Phosphate , Linalool , Fragrance – Parfum , Water – Aqua , Guanidine Carbonate , Xanthan Gum , Denatonium Benzoate , Green 5 – CI 61570 , Green 8 – CI 59040 , Water – Aqua , Sodium Laureth Sulfate , Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate , Citric Acid , Polyquaternium-7 , PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate , Polysorbate 20 , Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol , Algae Extract , Aloe Barbadensis , PEG-150 Distearate , Tetrasodium EDTA , Phenolsulfonphthalein , Diazolidinyl Urea , DMDM Hydantoin , Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate , Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone , Benzyl Salicylate , Butyl Phenyl Methyl Propional , Citronellol , Coumarin , Linalool , Fragrance – Parfum , Carthamus Tinctorius , Helianthus Annuus , Glycine Soja , Mineral Oil – Paraffinum Liquidum , Zea Mays , Limnanthes Alba , Lanolin Oil , Tocopheryl Acetate , Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone , Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride , BHT , Amyl Cinnamal , Citral , Limonene , Linalool , Fragrance – Parfum , Water – Aqua , Mineral Oil – Paraffinum Liquidum , Polyquaternium-22 , Hydroxyethylcellulose , Acetamide MEA , Panthenol , Hydrolyzed Keratin , Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans , Sodium Cocoyl Collagen Amino Acids , Algae Extract , Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol , Simmondsia Chinensis , Tocopheryl Acetate , Aloe Barbadensis , Oleth-3 Phosphate , Sorbitan Stearate , Linoleic Acid , Linolenic Acid , Triticum Vulgare , Wheat Germ Acid , Propylene Glycol , Sorbitol , Cocoyl Sarcosine , Methylisothiazolinone , Methylchloroisothiazolinone , Fragrance – Parfum , Water – Aqua , Mineral Oil – Paraffinum Liquidum , Lanolin , Lanolin Wax , Petrolatum , Lanolin Oil , C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate , Hydroxylated Lanolin , Panthenol , Sorbitan Oleate , Sodium Borate , Methylparaben , Diazolidinyl Urea , Limonene , Fragrance – Parfum , Red 33 – CI 17200

And here are the ingredients for Soft and Beautiful Botanicals No Lye Relaxer (soft and beautiful also makes Just for Me):

Water Aqua , Petrolatum , Cetearyl Alcohol , Mineral Oil Paraffinum Liquidum , Polysorbate 60 , Calcium Hydroxide , Propylene Glycol , PEG-75 Lanolin , Sodium Stearoamphoacetate , Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice , Oleth-3 Phosphate , Fragrance Parfum , Water Aqua , Guanidine Carbonate , Xanthan Gum , Denatonium Benzoate , Green 5 CI 61570 , Green 8 CI 59040 , Water , Sodium Laureth Sulfate , Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate , Polyquaternium-7 , Lauramide DEA , Citric Acid , Polysorbate 20 , PEG-150 Distearate , Tetrasodium EDTA , Methylparaben , Diazolidinyl Urea , Phenolsulfonphthalein , Fragrance Parfum , Water Aqua , Glycereth-26 , Dimethicone Copolyol , Dimethicone Copolyol Meadowfoamate , Panthenol , Hydrolyzed Collagen , Helianthus Annuus Extract Sunflower , Achillea Millefolium Extract , Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract Sage , Symphytum Officinal Leaf Extract , Lactic Acid , Silk Amino Acids , Acetamide MEA , Retinyl Palmitate , Tocopherol , Propylene Glycol , Polyquaternium-22 , Polysorbate 20 , Polyquaternium-11 , Methylchloroisothiazolinone , Methylisothiazolinone , Diazolidinyl Urea , Fragrance Parfum , Mineral Oil Paraffinum Liquidum , Ceresin , Petrolatum

The calcium hydroxide is the straightener for no lye hair relaxers and looks like they both have it.

I moved on to the “How texture softeners work” part of the site and was faced with this lovely diagram:

Notice the magic green swirls that this product contains to turn your bad hair to good hair(SARCASM!). What gets me is the claim to “gently soften while protecting your natural hair texture” That is so untrue that it’s funny. It completely changes it!

And the “tightly curled hair tangles causing breakage when combed” is misleading too. How about people ripping through tightly curled hair when it’s dry with a small toothed comb causes breakage?

I think that this diagram should be used instead of the first one to show “how texture softeners work”:

Ok I jest of course, but I think it would be nice if they had a realistic diagram with an actual explanation of how their product works. I long ago stopped believing in hocus pocus so ya’ll aren’t fooling me with the magic swirls, Just for Me.

Also on the site is a section called “Advice for Moms” from which I’ve taken this quote:

“By the time your daughter begins to interact socially with friends or family members or take in the many messages in the media, she will have some idea about her image and how others may view her. In order to ensure your daughter has a healthy self-concept, it is important to begin talking to her about her identity as soon as possible so that you can instill in her a strong self-esteem and a healthy self-image”

Orrrr it is important to begin making her feel that her natural hair is unmanageable and wrong, but don’t worry! You can infuse self esteem by loosening her curl pattern and giving her the healthy self image of ”good hair”.

On a serious note I understand what they were supposedly trying to do by including that section, but it kind of feels like it’s almost a joke  because the whole point of the texture softener is to make your hair, the way it grows naturally out of your head, into something else.

How can you have a healthy self image when really you don’t know what your true image is? If I get my “texture softened” at the age of 5, I don’t have a positive image of my hair that grows out of my head. I have a positive image of the hair that has been chemically treated to look like something else entirely. When that other stuff (the new growth) starts growing in, then I have a problem and feel self concious.

(Just a disclaimer, the following paragraph is full of sarcasm). To add insult to injury, the site also includes a link to a blog by a mom who is pretty much is just another advertising mechanism. I read through a few of the posts one of which was entitled “Options for Natural Hair”. It said you pretty much had three choices: First you can comb it everyday , but it’s just gonna tangle anyway. Second, you can use “temporary” treatments, I’m assuming she means moisturizers, but that will just cost too much because if your hair is really thick you’re going to have to use tons. Lastly (enter the calvary) you can use Just for Me Texture Softener and all your problems will be solved.

Don’t be fooled ladies. If  you have just BC’d and are looking for softer hair, please don’t run to products like these (texturizers, texture softeners, texlaxers) first. Do your research, you can find other methods of dealing with your hair without reintroducing the chemicals.

People who relax/texturize their hair and know the many options of natural hair and still choose to relax are well in their own rights to make that choice. It is a choice, one I will not be making, but I wish these companies would just come out and say exactly what their product is instead of trying to make it seem like something else.

I hope you enjoyed my first rant of the New Year!

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I received this email from a reader named Robin the other day:

I’m really enjoying your website. I see that you used to use Abba Nourishing. I still have an old bottle that I use for my daughter’s hair, and I just found out that Abba has renamed and repackaged it with the same ingredients. It’s called Abba Pure Gentle Conditioner. Thought you would like to know.

Thanks for all the helpful info.

Robin, thanks again for the email!

I do mention Abba Nourishing Leave On Conditioner a lot on this blog. I’ve never done an official review unfortunately because I knew that it is indeed being discontinued. I’ve stocked up on 1 liter bottles at TJMaxx and Marshall’s, so I have a good supply for awhile.  It’s got very nice ingredients, though not totally natural. The effects are wonderful. It’s super light, but coats and spreads on the hair well. The consistency reminds me of Knot Today but I have to admit that I prefer my Abba.

However, it’s now a thing of the past…or maybe not.  Because Abba has indeed repackaged it and renamed it into Abba Pure Gentle Conditioner. Except, the ingredients do differ slightly.

The "new" Abba Nourishing

The Abba Nourishing Replacement

Here are my beloved Abba Nourishing ingredients:

Botanical Infusion of Passiflora Incarnata (Passion Flower), Arnica Montana, Prunus Virginiana (Cherry Bark), Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary), Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetrimonium Bromide, Glycerin (Coconut), Lupin Amino Acids (150mw), Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (1000mw), Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (2000mw), Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch (Plant), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Aloe Barbadensis Gel, Algin, Benzophenone-3, Citric Acid (Fruit), Methylparaben (Food Grade Preservative), Imidazolidinyl Urea, ABBA’s Aromatherapy Fragrance

And here are Abba Pure Gentle Conditioner:

Botanical Infusion of: [Water (Aqua) (Eau), Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Prunus Serotina (Wild Cherry) Bark Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Flower Extract, Passiflora Incarnata Extract, Passiflora Incarnata Fruit Extract (*Passion Flower)], Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetrimonium Chloride, Glycerin, Lupin Amino Acids (150 mw), Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (1000 mw), Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (2000 mw), Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Algin, Citric Acid, Limonene, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Diazolidinyl Urea, ABBA Aromatherapy Fragrance (Parfum).

Ok, so they did remove Benzophenone-3 which is a questionable ingredient for possible health reasons. However, they added another paraben, which are also questionable.

I could sit and analyze ingredients all day, but I guess the main focus of this is will it treat my hair the same as the old formulation (or dare I hope even better?!) ? When I get my hands on this, I’ll be sure to post a detailed review.

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Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS )  and  its cousin Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) have long been listed among ingredients that we naturals (and other such curly headed folks) should stay away from. I’m sure you already know the drying effects of these ingredients which are also found in dish detergent, soaps, and toothpaste.

But is that all you have to worry about when using these?

Apparently not. I found a few interesting and disturbing things about SLS and SLES:

  • SLS may block the sebaceous hair gland that surround the hair follicle, according to some studies, resulting in damage to the follicle
  • Both SLS and SLES are suspected of possibly being carcinogenic
  • Both ingredients are cheap to manufactures of hair and skin products
  • Through skin contact, levels of both ingredients can be found in the heart, lungs, and brain
  • SLS may cause eye damage when in contact with the eyes and not removed completely
  • High levels of SLS may penetrate the skin even in small amounts
  • SLS is considered a skin irritant and is used to compare the skin irritancy of other ingredients
  • Blacks and Hispanics have been found more susceptible to irritation from SLS, and the elderly subjects seem to have decreased susceptibility
  • SLS is less alkaline than SLES, so it is often used in shampoos designed to be more mild and gentle
  • Along with dry skin, SLS can also cause mucous membrane irritation and urinary tract infections

I hated to even mention the carcinogenic possibilities of these because people seem to roll their eyes now whenever something is outed a potential carcinogen because it happens so much. I only included it because all of the books/websites that I looked at except for one named these ingredients as definite or possible carcinogens. The one that did not was The Complete Beauty Bible which pretty much completely dismissed it as an internet hoax after consulting with someone who conducted a study on the subject.

It’s up to the individual to research ingredients thoroughly and make the right decision for yourself and your family.

References and articles/books you might want to check out:

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate in Shampoos: The Real Story

Aloe Vera the New Millennium

CRC Handbook of Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Excipients

Child Health Guide: Holistic Pediatrics for Parents

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