From the category archives:

Ingredient Information

Edit:11/21/09 I’m bumping this old post because there have been so many great comments made. I’m also bumping it for any newbies who might be thinking of this as an option!

I was walking to get lunch at work yesterday when I spotted a young lady with a little fro walking by. All naturals catch my attention since they seem to be few and far in between where I live. I didn’t say anything and continued talking on my cell phone. She interrupted me and told me she liked my hair and asked how I did it.

I hung up my phone ( Bye DH!) because if there’s someone to talk about hair with, I’m happy! I told her how I did my twists, what products I like, about my BC. I then asked her about her hair : how long she’d been natural and did she just recently BC.

Her: “Oh no, I used to wear it really short like a dude but started growing it out. But my boyfriend said it was too damn nappy and what was I going to do with it? I had to put a texture softener in it just to be able to comb through it”

I must’ve winced when I heard “texture softener” because she said “What?”

Me (going with honesty):” I just didn’t know that your hair was,um, chemically treated”

Her (confused): “It’s not. A texture softener is like a moisturizer…it just makes the hair softer so you can comb through it. I used the childrens’ version”

Ya’ll, this about bowled me over. I was pretty much done at this point because 1) lunch time was quickly coming to a close and 2) I couldn’t believe that she really thought this. I told her that a texture softener was a mild relaxer, gave her the names of a few sites I like to visit and said goodbye.

Just now I was on the Just for Me Texture Softener site to see if it was misleading. I am mad and a little disgusted by what I saw.

First, let me list the ingredients, which I could not find on the website. I apologize if they are there and I just missed them, but I ended up having to go elsewhere for ingredient info (from www.walgreens.com):

Water – Aqua , Petrolatum , Cetearyl Alcohol , Mineral Oil – Paraffinum Liquidum , Polysorbate 60 , Calcium Hydroxide , Propylene Glycol , PEG-75 Lanolin , Sodium Stearoamphoacetate , Aloe Barbadensis , Oleth-3 Phosphate , Linalool , Fragrance – Parfum , Water – Aqua , Guanidine Carbonate , Xanthan Gum , Denatonium Benzoate , Green 5 – CI 61570 , Green 8 – CI 59040 , Water – Aqua , Sodium Laureth Sulfate , Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate , Citric Acid , Polyquaternium-7 , PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate , Polysorbate 20 , Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol , Algae Extract , Aloe Barbadensis , PEG-150 Distearate , Tetrasodium EDTA , Phenolsulfonphthalein , Diazolidinyl Urea , DMDM Hydantoin , Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate , Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone , Benzyl Salicylate , Butyl Phenyl Methyl Propional , Citronellol , Coumarin , Linalool , Fragrance – Parfum , Carthamus Tinctorius , Helianthus Annuus , Glycine Soja , Mineral Oil – Paraffinum Liquidum , Zea Mays , Limnanthes Alba , Lanolin Oil , Tocopheryl Acetate , Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone , Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride , BHT , Amyl Cinnamal , Citral , Limonene , Linalool , Fragrance – Parfum , Water – Aqua , Mineral Oil – Paraffinum Liquidum , Polyquaternium-22 , Hydroxyethylcellulose , Acetamide MEA , Panthenol , Hydrolyzed Keratin , Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans , Sodium Cocoyl Collagen Amino Acids , Algae Extract , Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol , Simmondsia Chinensis , Tocopheryl Acetate , Aloe Barbadensis , Oleth-3 Phosphate , Sorbitan Stearate , Linoleic Acid , Linolenic Acid , Triticum Vulgare , Wheat Germ Acid , Propylene Glycol , Sorbitol , Cocoyl Sarcosine , Methylisothiazolinone , Methylchloroisothiazolinone , Fragrance – Parfum , Water – Aqua , Mineral Oil – Paraffinum Liquidum , Lanolin , Lanolin Wax , Petrolatum , Lanolin Oil , C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate , Hydroxylated Lanolin , Panthenol , Sorbitan Oleate , Sodium Borate , Methylparaben , Diazolidinyl Urea , Limonene , Fragrance – Parfum , Red 33 – CI 17200

And here are the ingredients for Soft and Beautiful Botanicals No Lye Relaxer (soft and beautiful also makes Just for Me):

Water Aqua , Petrolatum , Cetearyl Alcohol , Mineral Oil Paraffinum Liquidum , Polysorbate 60 , Calcium Hydroxide , Propylene Glycol , PEG-75 Lanolin , Sodium Stearoamphoacetate , Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice , Oleth-3 Phosphate , Fragrance Parfum , Water Aqua , Guanidine Carbonate , Xanthan Gum , Denatonium Benzoate , Green 5 CI 61570 , Green 8 CI 59040 , Water , Sodium Laureth Sulfate , Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate , Polyquaternium-7 , Lauramide DEA , Citric Acid , Polysorbate 20 , PEG-150 Distearate , Tetrasodium EDTA , Methylparaben , Diazolidinyl Urea , Phenolsulfonphthalein , Fragrance Parfum , Water Aqua , Glycereth-26 , Dimethicone Copolyol , Dimethicone Copolyol Meadowfoamate , Panthenol , Hydrolyzed Collagen , Helianthus Annuus Extract Sunflower , Achillea Millefolium Extract , Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract Sage , Symphytum Officinal Leaf Extract , Lactic Acid , Silk Amino Acids , Acetamide MEA , Retinyl Palmitate , Tocopherol , Propylene Glycol , Polyquaternium-22 , Polysorbate 20 , Polyquaternium-11 , Methylchloroisothiazolinone , Methylisothiazolinone , Diazolidinyl Urea , Fragrance Parfum , Mineral Oil Paraffinum Liquidum , Ceresin , Petrolatum

The calcium hydroxide is the straightener for no lye hair relaxers and looks like they both have it.

I moved on to the “How texture softeners work” part of the site and was faced with this lovely diagram:

Notice the magic green swirls that this product contains to turn your bad hair to good hair(SARCASM!). What gets me is the claim to “gently soften while protecting your natural hair texture” That is so untrue that it’s funny. It completely changes it!

And the “tightly curled hair tangles causing breakage when combed” is misleading too. How about people ripping through tightly curled hair when it’s dry with a small toothed comb causes breakage?

I think that this diagram should be used instead of the first one to show “how texture softeners work”:

Ok I jest of course, but I think it would be nice if they had a realistic diagram with an actual explanation of how their product works. I long ago stopped believing in hocus pocus so ya’ll aren’t fooling me with the magic swirls, Just for Me.

Also on the site is a section called “Advice for Moms” from which I’ve taken this quote:

“By the time your daughter begins to interact socially with friends or family members or take in the many messages in the media, she will have some idea about her image and how others may view her. In order to ensure your daughter has a healthy self-concept, it is important to begin talking to her about her identity as soon as possible so that you can instill in her a strong self-esteem and a healthy self-image”

Orrrr it is important to begin making her feel that her natural hair is unmanageable and wrong, but don’t worry! You can infuse self esteem by loosening her curl pattern and giving her the healthy self image of ”good hair”.

On a serious note I understand what they were supposedly trying to do by including that section, but it kind of feels like it’s almost a joke  because the whole point of the texture softener is to make your hair, the way it grows naturally out of your head, into something else.

How can you have a healthy self image when really you don’t know what your true image is? If I get my “texture softened” at the age of 5, I don’t have a positive image of my hair that grows out of my head. I have a positive image of the hair that has been chemically treated to look like something else entirely. When that other stuff (the new growth) starts growing in, then I have a problem and feel self concious.

(Just a disclaimer, the following paragraph is full of sarcasm). To add insult to injury, the site also includes a link to a blog by a mom who is pretty much is just another advertising mechanism. I read through a few of the posts one of which was entitled “Options for Natural Hair”. It said you pretty much had three choices: First you can comb it everyday , but it’s just gonna tangle anyway. Second, you can use “temporary” treatments, I’m assuming she means moisturizers, but that will just cost too much because if your hair is really thick you’re going to have to use tons. Lastly (enter the calvary) you can use Just for Me Texture Softener and all your problems will be solved.

Don’t be fooled ladies. If  you have just BC’d and are looking for softer hair, please don’t run to products like these (texturizers, texture softeners, texlaxers) first. Do your research, you can find other methods of dealing with your hair without reintroducing the chemicals.

People who relax/texturize their hair and know the many options of natural hair and still choose to relax are well in their own rights to make that choice. It is a choice, one I will not be making, but I wish these companies would just come out and say exactly what their product is instead of trying to make it seem like something else.

I hope you enjoyed my first rant of the New Year!

{ 25 comments }

I received this email from a reader named Robin the other day:

I’m really enjoying your website. I see that you used to use Abba Nourishing. I still have an old bottle that I use for my daughter’s hair, and I just found out that Abba has renamed and repackaged it with the same ingredients. It’s called Abba Pure Gentle Conditioner. Thought you would like to know.

Thanks for all the helpful info.

Robin, thanks again for the email!

I do mention Abba Nourishing Leave On Conditioner a lot on this blog. I’ve never done an official review unfortunately because I knew that it is indeed being discontinued. I’ve stocked up on 1 liter bottles at TJMaxx and Marshall’s, so I have a good supply for awhile.  It’s got very nice ingredients, though not totally natural. The effects are wonderful. It’s super light, but coats and spreads on the hair well. The consistency reminds me of Knot Today but I have to admit that I prefer my Abba.

However, it’s now a thing of the past…or maybe not.  Because Abba has indeed repackaged it and renamed it into Abba Pure Gentle Conditioner. Except, the ingredients do differ slightly.

The "new" Abba Nourishing

The Abba Nourishing Replacement

Here are my beloved Abba Nourishing ingredients:

Botanical Infusion of Passiflora Incarnata (Passion Flower), Arnica Montana, Prunus Virginiana (Cherry Bark), Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary), Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetrimonium Bromide, Glycerin (Coconut), Lupin Amino Acids (150mw), Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (1000mw), Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (2000mw), Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch (Plant), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Aloe Barbadensis Gel, Algin, Benzophenone-3, Citric Acid (Fruit), Methylparaben (Food Grade Preservative), Imidazolidinyl Urea, ABBA’s Aromatherapy Fragrance

And here are Abba Pure Gentle Conditioner:

Botanical Infusion of: [Water (Aqua) (Eau), Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Prunus Serotina (Wild Cherry) Bark Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Flower Extract, Passiflora Incarnata Extract, Passiflora Incarnata Fruit Extract (*Passion Flower)], Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetrimonium Chloride, Glycerin, Lupin Amino Acids (150 mw), Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (1000 mw), Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (2000 mw), Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Algin, Citric Acid, Limonene, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Diazolidinyl Urea, ABBA Aromatherapy Fragrance (Parfum).

Ok, so they did remove Benzophenone-3 which is a questionable ingredient for possible health reasons. However, they added another paraben, which are also questionable.

I could sit and analyze ingredients all day, but I guess the main focus of this is will it treat my hair the same as the old formulation (or dare I hope even better?!) ? When I get my hands on this, I’ll be sure to post a detailed review.

{ 2 comments }

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS )  and  its cousin Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) have long been listed among ingredients that we naturals (and other such curly headed folks) should stay away from. I’m sure you already know the drying effects of these ingredients which are also found in dish detergent, soaps, and toothpaste.

But is that all you have to worry about when using these?

Apparently not. I found a few interesting and disturbing things about SLS and SLES:

  • SLS may block the sebaceous hair gland that surround the hair follicle, according to some studies, resulting in damage to the follicle
  • Both SLS and SLES are suspected of possibly being carcinogenic
  • Both ingredients are cheap to manufactures of hair and skin products
  • Through skin contact, levels of both ingredients can be found in the heart, lungs, and brain
  • SLS may cause eye damage when in contact with the eyes and not removed completely
  • High levels of SLS may penetrate the skin even in small amounts
  • SLS is considered a skin irritant and is used to compare the skin irritancy of other ingredients
  • Blacks and Hispanics have been found more susceptible to irritation from SLS, and the elderly subjects seem to have decreased susceptibility
  • SLS is less alkaline than SLES, so it is often used in shampoos designed to be more mild and gentle
  • Along with dry skin, SLS can also cause mucous membrane irritation and urinary tract infections

I hated to even mention the carcinogenic possibilities of these because people seem to roll their eyes now whenever something is outed a potential carcinogen because it happens so much. I only included it because all of the books/websites that I looked at except for one named these ingredients as definite or possible carcinogens. The one that did not was The Complete Beauty Bible which pretty much completely dismissed it as an internet hoax after consulting with someone who conducted a study on the subject.

It’s up to the individual to research ingredients thoroughly and make the right decision for yourself and your family.

References and articles/books you might want to check out:

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate in Shampoos: The Real Story

Aloe Vera the New Millennium

CRC Handbook of Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Excipients

Child Health Guide: Holistic Pediatrics for Parents

{ 4 comments }

Get Adobe Flash playerPlugin by wpburn.com wordpress themes