From the category archives:

Skin Care

My Adventures with Crisco

by kcurly on January 8, 2012

in "Hair raising" Experiements and Recipes,Crisco,Ingredient Information,Skin Care,Straight Natural Styling

You may have seen me on Twitter talking about trying out Crisco. That’s right, the shortening that people use to bake and fry with.

Crisco’s Background Check

You might have a few preconceived notions about using Crisco on the hair. Here were some that I had:

It will make me smell like fried chicken. Not true. Crisco has no scent as far as I can tell. Honestly, I don’t know why this keeps coming up, but I think it’s the association Crisco has had with lard. (FYI: Crisco is not lard) Now, if you fry some chicken, save the oil and then reuse it on your hair, you might have a problem.

The ingredients are bad for my hair. Well, I guess that would be an individual choice. The ingredients are actually not that bad. From the back of my can:

So we have soybean oil, and then hydrogenated palm and soybean oils. Hydrogenation (ug, get ready for a lil science) is the process of adding hydrogen under pressure to liquid oils which semi-solidifies them. This process is used in a ton of hair care, make up, fragrances, and other beauty products.

Yes, it’s used in a ton of products, but that still doesn’t answer the question of “How safe is it?”

I took my search to SkinDeep which pretty much reports that there is very little to no toxicity or danger associated with the use of hydrogenated vegetable oils. Of course taken internally is a whole ‘nother matter…so hold off on using this to make biscuits too often (though my grandma used to make the BEST pies and biscuits with Crisco!). If you’re someone who only likes to use pure, unrefined oils and ingredients, this might not be for you.

The next ingredient that raised a flag was TBHQ (tertiary butylhydroquinone). I was like, what the heck is this exactly? I did find some alarming articles online about this ingredient but I found just as many that said that the alarmists were alarming for no reason. This is from wikipedia:

Both the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) and the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) have evaluated TBHQ and determined that it is safe to consume at the concentration allowed in foods.[4] The FDA sets an upper limit of 0.02% of the oil or fat content in foods.[5] At higher doses, it has some negative health effects on lab animals, such as producing precursors to stomach tumors and damage to DNA.[6] A number of studies have shown that prolonged exposure to high doses of TBHQ may be carcinogenic,[7] especially for stomach tumors.[8] Other studies, however, have shown opposite effects including inhibition against HCA-induced carcinogenesis (by depression of metabolic activation) for TBHQ and other phenolic antioxidants (TBHQ was one of several, and not the most potent).[9] The EFSA considers TBHQ to be non-carcinogenic.[4] A review of scientific literature concerning the toxicity of TBHQ determined that there is a wide margin of safety between the levels of intake by humans and the doses that produce adverse effects in animal studies.[10] However, it should also be noted that the review cited in the last sentence took place some time ago (1986).

Based on the above information and others, I’m  not too fussed about that ingredient.

It will “fry” my hair like it fries that delicious chicken.  I was torn on this one. Many people use coconut oil and other oils to flat iron their hair.I’ve seen a lot of people who press with Crisco say that it doesn’t boil until around 400-425 degrees Fahrenheit. Therefore, by that reasoning, keeping your appliances below 400 or so will minimize damage. I will present the evidence I’ve found and let you decide for yourself.

In order to find out if Crisco would “cook” one’s hair, I thought I had to find out the boiling points of the two oils that make up Crisco: soybean and palm. Let me tell you, it is very hard to find the exact boiling points for these oils.

I did, however, find the “smoke point” for these oils, though they also vary. The smoke point is when oil is heated so much that it produces smoke and it also starts to degrade nutritionally. When frying, you want to choose oils with a high smoke point, like veggie oils. Palm oil’s smoke point is around 455 degrees F and soybean oil’s is around 460 degrees F (wikiepdia).

I was able to find out from the Department of Physics at the University of Illinois that an oil will reach its smoke point before it reaches its boiling point.

However, these points depend not only the type of oil but also how refined the oil is. So, according to the aforementioned physics site, the boiling point for soybean oil (very refined) would be around 572 degreed F! The less pure an oil is the more heat it can take.

This leads me to believe that the boiling point is not what I should be looking at, but instead the smoke point. And I’m also thinking that’s what people who defend Crisco are referring to when they say “boiling point” but I could be wrong.

NOW, having said allll that…crisco is shortening, not liquid oil. I’ve found out that shortening has a much lower smoke point than regular soybean and palm oil. Crisco recommends frying at 365 to 375 degrees F when using the shortening. Another cooking site I went to had the smoke point of veggie shortening at 325 degrees F.

Take all of the above information and apply your own judgement. I would personally suggest, as I do for all instances when you use heat, to make sure you use the lowest possible setting and use a heat protectant. I typically use my flat iron at about 400. I researched the whole smoke point thing after I flat ironed (smart, I know!)

Of course, none of this matters if you use it without heat.

Last notion: It just ain’t right to use shortening on your hair! Ok it does seem weird. But using honey, molasses, and bananas on my hair seemed weird 5 years ago. If you’re still of the mind that it ain’t right, check out this article from The Natural Haven.

My Review

If you’ve never seen Crisco, it is a white thick, almost buttery feeling semi-solid. I’ve heard it compared to mayonnaise and I can’t understand the comparison. Mayo is what I would call “gloppy” and Crisco isn’t like that at all. It is very rich and spreads easily. As I said, I can detect no odor. The price was $2.89 at my local grocery store.

I didn’t start out using Crisco for flat ironing, even though that is what it seems to receive the most praise for.

I used it on dry hair first. My results? Very soft hair. I also thought it would be hella greasy like a petroleum  product, but it really wasn’t. I started out using it sparingly but found that I could actually apply a bit more than was often suggested.

I did not find it be moisturizing when used alone. I’m not surprised as oils don’t generally do much for moisture as a rule. I think this is an excellent choice for sealing and that’s what I used it for.

I also found a lot of reports of Crisco imparting sheen, even without flat ironing. I did not find this to be the case when applying it to a dry natural style. I did find that it lent more sheen when I used it on wet hair.

As for my flat ironing experience, I do have to say that this was probably the best press I’ve ever done. My hair was extremely soft with minimal greasiness (I could feel the product but only lightly), it was shiny (though straight hair usually does shine), and it got pretty darn straight.

Here was my routine:

  • Shampoo with Suave Clarifying Shampoo
  • Applied homemade protein treatment, rinsed
  • Deep Condition with Lustrasilk Shea Plus, detangled, rinsed
  • Banded hair with Nexxus Heat Protexx (liquid heat protectant) and let air dry
  • Blowdried with comb attachment (on low heat)
  • Applied Crisco and flat ironed on 400 degrees F (mostly 2 passes, sometimes 3)

 

I’ve since used it a few times on my flat ironed hair when it felt dry. It feels moisturized after I use it but the feeling doesn’t last long. So, again, doesn’t do much for me in the moisture department.

In addition to using it on my hair, I’ve been using it on my skin. It has been doing wonders for my dry, rough feet. After a bath, it can be a bit much, so use it sparingly. But even when I used too much, I didn’t stay greasy long ;)

I can’t say that Crisco is the only thing I will ever use on my skin and hair (because as a product junkie, I can’t completely commit!) but it will definitely enter the rotation. Especially at that price.

Some other interesting facts about Crisco:

  • Elvis supposedly used it to style his hair back in the ’50s.
  • Crisco is an excellent treatment for eczema.
  • Oncologists and gynecologists will sometimes recommend Crisco for vaginal dryness.
  • Crisco can be used on diaper rash.

Share your experiments/experiences with Crisco or critique my shoddy science research below! Thanks for reading!

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What are you feeding your skin?

by kcurly on June 21, 2011

in Health,Protection from Swimming and Summer Sun,Skin Care,Tips

I was sent this article and thought I would share it. Very interesting info. In addition to being on the hunt for great hair, I’m also on the hunt for great skin!

WHAT ARE YOU FEEDING YOUR SKIN?

BOARD CERTIFIED DERMATOLOGIST SERVES UP SOME COMPLEXION SAVING ADVICE

Want truly fabulous skin — glowing, vibrant, and younger looking skin? Make sure you’re putting foods for healthy skin on your plate.

“Everything you eat becomes a part of not only your inner being, but the outer fabric of your body as well. The healthier the foods are that you consume, the better your skin will look,” says NYC Board Certified Dermatologist and Cosmetic Dermatologic Surgeon  Dr. Ariel Ostad.

The reverse is true as well. The less attention we pay to what goes in our mouth, the more problems we may see cropping up with our skin. “You could have sallow, dry and older-looking skin. It’s not going to happen overnight, but starve your skin long enough, and it’s going to show,” says Dr. Ostad. What’s more, some health experts believe that when your diet is missing certain foods for healthy skin, other, even more serious skin problems can result. Dr. Ostad points out that, “a number of conditions, such as acne, can cause you to suddenly break out. And some chronic skin conditions, such as eczema, may be linked to diet.”

Berries

Strawberries, blueberries and blackberries pack high amounts of antioxidants. Antioxidants help block “free radicals,” such as the sun’s rays, from damaging skin cells. But don’t toss your sunscreen. Eating berries is an extra step you can take to help protect your skin from damage and prevent premature aging. “Free radicals; like the kind formed from sun exposure damage the membrane of skin cells, potentially allowing damage to the DNA of that cell,” says Dr Ostad. The antioxidants and other phytochemicals in these fruits can protect the cell, so there is less chance for damage.” When you help protect the cells from damage and disintegration, you also guard against premature aging. In this respect, these fruits may very well help keep your skin younger looking longer,” says Dr. Ostad.

Sweet Potatoes

Vegetables such as sweet potatoes contain beta-carotene and vitamins A and C — a good formula for beautiful skin. These nutrients can help retain skin moisture and prevent dryness.

Low-Fat Dairy

One the most important components of skin health is vitamin A. One of the best places to get it is low-fat dairy products. In fact, experts say that the health of our skin cells is dependent on dietary vitamin A.  “The A in dairy products is true A, so everyone’s skin can use it,” says Dr. Ostad. He adds, “low-fat yogurt is not only high in vitamin A, but also acidophilus, the “live” bacteria that is good for intestinal health. It may also have an impact on the skin. Anything that helps keep digestion normal, any live bacteria or enzymes, is also going to be reflected in healthy-looking skin.”

Salmon, Walnuts, Canola Oil, and Flax Seed

These seemingly unrelated foods all deliver essential fatty acids, and thus are key foods for healthy skin. Essential fatty acids are responsible for healthy cell membranes, which is not only what act as barriers to harmful things but also as the passageway for nutrients to cross in and out and for waste products to get in and out of the cell. Dr. Ostad explains that, “Because it is the cell membrane that also holds water in, the stronger that barrier is the better your cells can hold moisture. And that means plumper, younger looking skin.” The same inflammatory process that can harm our arteries and cause heart disease can harm skin cells. Essential fatty acids can offer protection to both. The best-known essential fatty acids are omega 3 and omega 6, which must be in balance for good health (and good skin). Though we all seem to get enough omega 6, Ostad says many people lack omega 3s. Fish, walnut, and flax seed oil are among the best sources.

Oils

Oils can give your skin much needed moisture. Just make sure you’re using healthy oils, such as olive oil. Adding just 2 tablespoons a day to your diet will help keep your skin properly lubricated and healthy.

Whole Grains

The mineral selenium is an antioxidant found in whole-grain products. Selenium can help control cell damage that can lead to skin cancer. Filling up on whole grains will help you avoid refined white flour and starchy foods that can increase your insulin levels. High insulin levels can induce inflammation and irritate your skin.

Green Tea

This beverage deserves its own category in any article about foods for healthy skin. The skin-health properties in this beneficial drink just can’t be beat. “It has anti-inflammatory properties, and it’s protective to the cell membrane. It may even help prevent or reduce the risk of skin cancer,” says Dr. Ostad. Indeed, a study published recently in the Archives of Dermatology shows that whether taken orally or applied to the skin, green tea can reduce the risk of damage from ultraviolet light (such as the burning rays of the sun), and thus reduce the risk of skin cancer.

Water

While the exact amount you should drink each day varies, no one disputes the role good hydration plays in keeping skin looking healthy and even young. When that hydration comes from pure, clean water; not liquids such as soda or even soup, experts say skin cells rejoice. “It is my belief that our skin needs at least eight glasses every day,” says Dr. Ostad. In addition to keeping cells hydrated, water helps cells move nutrients in and toxins out, which Dr. Ostad says automatically leaves skin looking better. He adds that, “when we’re properly hydrated, we also sweat more efficiently.”

SOME COMMON MYTHS DEBUNKED

Chocolate Causes Acne

Fried foods don’t, either. There is no little pipeline that carries oil from your intestines to your skin. Oily foods have nothing to do with the skin’s oiliness, and oil isn’t the cause of acne, anyway. Acne occurs when testosterone and other hormones stimulate the growth of skin over pores so that the oil, sebum, that keeps the skin flexible and wrinkle-free, gets trapped inside. When bacteria degrade this oil, then there can be whiteheads, blackheads, and various kinds of inflammation.

Junk Food and Dark Colas Cause Acne

Experts agree that there is no evidence to support the claim that gorging on pizza and Coke leads to acne. However, if you notice that your acne flare up significantly after consuming certain foods or beverages, eliminate those items and watch your skin. You may have stumbled in your own free brand of treatment.

Vitamin A Prevents Acne

The Truth – Vitamin A is an important part of skin health. Basically, if you don’t have enough Vitamin A in your system, your sebaceous glands produce excess lipids, causing pimples, but if you have too much vitamin A, while your pimples might not be the issue, other parts of your body, like your liver, may be negatively affected. The optimal daily intake with food and supplementation is about 15,000 IU.

Dr. Ostad is a board certified Dermatologist and Cosmetic Dermatologic Surgeon, a Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology. He received his B.A. magna cum Laude and Phi Beta Kappa in 1987 from New York University. In 1991, Dr. Ostad received his M.D. from New York University School of Medicine. He went on to do an internship at Harvard Medical School, and completed his residency in Dermatology at New York University Medical Center in 1995. He completed a fellowship in Mohs micrographic surgery, laser and dermatologic surgery at UCLA.
Dr. Ostad is currently a Clinical Assistant Professor in the Department of Dermatology at New York University Medical Center, and a former contributing editor to the Journal of Dermatologic Surgery. He has authored numerous articles on topics including chemical peeling agents, hair follicle stem cells, liposuction, and laser surgery, and has written textbook chapters in Cutaneous Oncology (Blackwell 1998). He is also a co-author of a textbook entitled Practical Management of Skin Cancer (Lippincott-Raven, 1998). Dr. Ostad is also a course instructor for the American Academy of Dermatology, and is frequently called on to lecture on laser surgery and skin cancer.

 

A popular resource with the media, Dr. Ostad has appeared on ABC, NBC, FOX, CBS, CNN and has been quoted in many consumer publications including Vogue, Glamour InStyle, Allure, Cosmopolitan and many others.

 

 

 

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